We had to call the manufacturer!?

The drill-powered pulley you see in this episode is now available hownot2.store/products/z2 Lappas wedge bolts are at hownot2.store/products/titanium-wedge-bolt

I am exclusively using wedgebolts in underground mining and we rarely use them more than once. Besides chemical substances inducing rapid metal decay, there are bacillus (EDIT: e.g, Acidithiobacillus ferrooxidans ; Acidithiobacillus thiooxidans etc) underground depending on the mineralisation that are able to break down pretty much any non-precious metal in unpredictable ways. If a wedgebolt is in there for more than 2 months (especially in close proximity to hydrothermal sulfide formations) i personally do not trust them anymore and usually drill new holes use new bolts new hangers and destroy the old ones to make sure nobody else uses them. At one occasion, put in some V4A stainless 24mm survey bolts and some of them turned into briddle black crumbs after just 2 years due to agressive waters and bacteria. EDIT: The presence of iron pyrite is usually an indicator that both aluminium and stainless steel are likely to corrode there.

"That will literally be in there forever". Challenge accepted! Drop me the cords for that rock where you snapped off that concrete anchor and I'll film a video on how to remove a recessed damaged concrete anchor without damaging the rock further.

These are my thoughts as somebody that works with titanium from the manufacturing & assembly side and not as a materials engineer. Titanium parts will typically come with much more specific instructions for thread forms, assembly specifications and anti-seize compounds used where parts need to be threaded, pivot in an assembly or need to be disassembled for service. You should see who you can get in contact with a materials/structures engineer that is familiar with titanium. If you're still in the PNW there is a good chance that a friend of a friend knows an aerospace engineer. Titanium has some odd material properties when you start to get into assemblies and threads, odd being compared to the same parts made out of steel. Threads and threaded assemblies with Ti on Ti can be susceptible to a few failure modes and issues not common in steel. The form of the root of the thread can become a stress concentration area if it is cut with a sharp pointed tool. This might be why the bolt broke at the threads and not in an are of the bolt with a smaller diameter. Threads with Ti on Ti are also susceptible to galling, if it is installed once and never touched and never needs to be tightened this would not be a problem, if the nut does ever start to loosen over time and needs to be tightened over and over again it could either gall in place or with a spinning hanger on it. Threads are basically spiral wedges so the same problem can happen at the wedge end of the bolt as well. The wedge could lock to the collar before it has fully expanded. For these issues some steps can be taken during installation such as using an anti-seize or lubricant on the wedge end but it just makes it more complicated. Titanium fasteners are eruptible to room temperature creep when under load if they are over torqued or under a constant load (highline anchors) That being said, a titanium wedge bolt can be a good thing and a useful tool for development, but it can also have quite a few inherent failure modes designed into it if not careful. Bending, twisting or welding titanium rod to make a glue in doesn't really have any of these issues and the community should probably just stick with those for now.

For paywall standards, I've had some luck with contacting my local library system. You're in Seattle now, and we have a pretty good one. Often they will find some way where they already have access to the document, or they might even buy the standard for their collection. Hasn't worked every time though, they have budgets too and the full text ANSI standards are $$$, who cares that I trust my life to those standards every day, guess I don't need to read it! Ugh. I really get the frustration.

3:10 35mm/min is the prescribed speed in EN 959. Might be why Lappas tests that slowly.

Titanium has a much smaller range of deformation and is more brittle than stainless, that's the short answer why they broke lower in soft rock. So if they are just loaded without little to no movement, they hold up just fine but if they also have to bend around stuff while being loaded, they fail sooner. So as you said, do NOT use in soft rock.

I really appreciate the lengths you guys go to in producing this material.

I’m not a climber. Into survival and I love gear and rope. I have learned so much and love watching you vids. Dig it.

I love the work you've done regarding bolt testing, the bolting bible and all relevant information on the subject. With all the the information available, accessible and now a convenient store to purchase quality bolts from, I'd hope to see only the best of the best bolts put up from now on. As we've seen, there's not a "one size fits all" solution but maybe those are all points that will be tied in with the new proposed legislation regarding bolts. With any luck there are only a few "necessary evil" hoops to jump through, minimal red tape and it ensures: placing stronger bolts designed to last a longer time, bolt selection based off which product is best for each application, better bolt placement amongst the rock and an overall, safer, more cost effective and less environmentally impactful experience.

Thanks Rman and Bobbster. ;) Keep on bolt(testin') in the free world!

That is really cool that he sent you his test video! Full transparency is amazing

You guys rock! I love seeing how you go about testing this stuff. Makes me feel safer knowing I'm never going to reach those numbers on my own.

@HOWNOT2 THANKS FOR THE INFORMATIVE VIDEO FYI - @ 6:22- standing within the " V OF DEATH" MOST DANGEROUS PLACE TO BE..... GREAT EXAMPLE OF HOW NOT 2 BEST WISHES

Haven't been into climbing in a few years cause of medical stuff but will hit the rocks sometime. Thanks for the testing yall do!

10:58 I dig that spark flying! 🎆

Anyone else notice the whole boulder shifting at 11:00?

It took me less than a minute to find and download a free copy of the BS-EN 2007 edition. (British Standards Institute) Each member nation approves the standard and the adds BS- or DIN- to the standard making it their approved version. The current 2021 edition is a reapproval of the 2018 edition, which in turn was an updated version of 2007. Usually, the changes are minor and are often defined by other websites. It just came takes time to research.

It’s refreshing that they sent the actual video

Ryan/Bobby. I have a thought/idea. When testing hangers, it really seems the size of the "object" that gets connected to the hanger makes a difference on how/when the hanger will break or shear. What would be an interesting test is that if you could make a jig for a specific hanger so that the bolt size and quality is not a factor, then use different diameter objects on the hanger to see what difference diameters make as the force applied across the hanger changes from a small diameter to a large diameter. Sorry if this is a bit jumbled but sometimes my fingers can't keep up with my brain when typing lol. Anyway, it seems you have all of the hardware there to quantify varying diameters of objects and their affects on breaking strength on hangers. To put all of this in perspective, I am not a climber or a slack liner, but I find the testing that you both do fascinating. Keep up the great work and try not to move your patio concrete pad......