Customers $1,200 Chainsaw Destroyed! Husqvarna 372 XP Rebuild

Thanks for Watching! Find a link to all of my "Must Have", Favorite Tools HERE!! www.amazon.com/shop/chickanic?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_a…

the best thing about these videos are how real a person you are!

That is a great idea to clean it up before you go to take it apart . bre The 2 cycle equipment repair queen 👑

I have rebuilt alot of husky 372's that sounded way too lean on the test run. Those xtorq's were noted to wear the low end bearings or case pockets out then the seals would leak. The big end conrod was blue. Which may mean the cylinder went bad from running too lean from an air leak.

This channel is worth watching even if you don't work on your own stuff, Very informative ane entertaining.

Being a Husqvarna Warranty repair person its up to me to determine if it was a mechanical failure or operator error. Which means i have to carefully check everything before and during disassembly . Which includes crankcase pressure vacuum testing. As always a great video 👍.

I did lots of those in 2005-2017 when I was a Husqvarna tech...have done a few since. I'm the first one to admit I despise doing pressure/leakdown tests, but a burned pro saw you are going to put back into service is the time to do one. That said, even if I KNOW the cause was straight-gas, I will usually put new crank seals in as insurance..don't want a comeback or to burn up a new $200 OEM P&C. I do remember, when the X-torqs were first introduced, we had a LOT of them come back burned up, almost new...lots of crank main bearing failures on those, which of course takes out the seals..if it's an X-Torq model, I definitely check the bearings and seals..also the x-torqs were known for having air leaks at the intake boot as well..all in all, I didn't care for the X-torq models, I'd much rather have an original design 372XP..the X-torq was basically a way to keep the popular 372 models in production, because the original design wouldn't meet EPA regs anymore..Everything on the X-torq on the top end was completely different/redesigned, and they have taller engine covers and handlebars than the OE version. Lots of customers didn't know the difference, and wondered why some of the parts from their old parts saws wouldn't fit their newer saws when they started to "Frankensaw" them...I always told them, if the compression release came up through the top cover, it's an X-torq...if the release is on the side of the cylinder, it's an original version 372. IMHO, they should have called the saw something else, like 374XTP, or something...but, they were trying to continue the popular 372XP saw without anyone noticing the changes, I suppose...

I’ve had very good success owning Husqvarna over the years , 3 of them and I never lost a days work ! Jonsered 2065 was and still is one of my favorites, terrific chainsaw ! You did well on the repair and I learned a few things watching you !

I just love a woman like Chickie. So very smart. Great sense of humor. Beautiful. Hey where do we needy fellows find such a catch. Your spouse is one lucky guy !!!

Regarding an RV vs airline. Great idea there's lots of places to go, see and do. DO NOT purchase an RV. Doing so is a great way to lose money to depreciation and discounting when time to sell. Depending on level of use I recommend you either rent for each trip or lease one for a specific time. Our experience was buying a used 45' repo bus with 4 slides. Pretty much rebuilt all systems to keep it on the road. Sort of like a chain saw, it's great till it's not then your at mercy of a dealer/repair who has too many in que for repair and they over charge for simple repairs. Good luck. Thanks for your Channel. I think your video' are awesome. Merry Christmas

Tech Tip for getting the piston re-assembled to the conrod: Turn the saw perpendicular to your line of sight, so your able to "see through" the eye of the con rod. Assemble the wrist pin on the blind side of the piston so that you can see the alignment as you work. Leaving the piston dry until just before cylinder installation makes for easier handling. I like a little engine assembly lube on the wrist pin needle bearings but nothing wrong with a bit of engine oil instead.

That is a lifetime saw. Absolute workhorse, I will never give mine up. Old school pre EPA monster.

I’m surprised you didn’t do a pressure test. I would have at least checked the PTO side bearing for play and the rod for play. Also that saw still sounded lean on the start up. Sounds just like a saw before it runs out of fuel. I can never just fix anything. I need to know the problem that caused it in the first place. But either way I did learn lots of stuff over the years watching your videos. And no matter what you do people will criticize. Including me haha

Old school tip: use the original Slick 50 formula, now being sold as Xcelplus as assembly lube. It gives conventional lubrication for initial startup, and permeates the metal with Teflon like polymer after just a few seconds of running. This polymer will reduce friction nearly indefinitely in a 2 stroke or 4 stroke small engine.

Personally I check the crankseals with every rebuild as well. 😉

Hope you checked crank bearings for play causing air leak. Under side of piston burnt is sign. Definitely would recommend seals atleast and clean tank with new feul filter 🔧🔧 gas that come out looked like dirty paint thinner lol . Definitely recommend checking crank bearings and seals on saws or lean failure can happen again even if seems to run good after rebuild. Very nice job you're the best 🔧🔧🔥🔥🏁🏁 maybe you did check just dud show. I have a 575 on bench right now same deal. Was rebuilt few months ago just top end. PTO bearing spun causing air leak and burnt up again 😃

Darlin I love the way you explain it all in English in detail. You diagnosed the problem, got the new parts and even mentioned the prices plus tax! Lol... All in like 5 minutes, love it:-) okay going to watch the rest of the video now...

Just a tip from an old aircraft mechanic. Save the old pin and taper one end on a lathe and this makes a great tool to line the piston pin hole with the rod hole. Save it for the next one.

When I traveled to Japan, we had one hour to get from one airport to another to catch the next flight. During that hour, we had to claim our bags, clear customs, buy a bus ticket, find the bus, ride to the other airport, then check in at the other airline. Japan has a very efficient bus system, so we made the connection without issues.

Thank you for your explanation on this. I’ve learned so much from watching your videos. They have saved me time, money and frustration, for sure. Glad you had a good time in Mexico.