CANON RESPOND, THEIR ADMISSION SURPRISED ME!

To help get rid of the blackout between shots in H-mode shooting you need to enable the High Speed Display option (Red menu, Page 8). This option is only available when NOT shooting in H+ mode and will basically eliminate the blackout, but there's still a stutter to it for things like panning shots. Might want to give it a try though and see if it's something that helps you when shooting in that mode, it's nice to know it's an option

Your commitment is something do be admired. After so many videos dedicated to the R7, you come back and produce content for all of us that don't have the luxury to change bodies every now and then. Thanks for taking the time and energy to provide us with this information. Cheers

While I do appreciate Canon ultimately being honest when questioned about this issue, I really think they should be more upfront about it in their literature and marketing materials. It's no good to have a camera that can shoot 30 fps if a large percentage of your shots are out of focus. It seems a bit deceptive of Canon not to make consumers aware of this information. Thanks so much Duade, for doing the research and helping all of us budding wildlife photographers to have a clearer picture of our gear and its capabilities. You are simply the best!

Watching this video should be mandatory for anyone purchasing a mirrorless camera. Well done Duade.

:_gday: I bought my R7 in December or January. I started using it as my first mirrorless camera, along with a Sigma 150-600mm, which is quite heavy (1st super telephoto lens as well for me). At this time I was on 30fps. So the learning curve was quite steep, and it took me a while to start getting more consistency in my sharp photos. I was overwhelmed with so many images shot and to choose from, and came down to H (15fps). To my amazement I was getting more sharp shots and also a lot less warbling. I could see almost no difference from one photo to the next. Ever since I've been using Electronic in H, and 1st curtain for BiF to remove any warping (have this on set in C1 for easy access). Thank you for the video, it confirms my theory as well and added more insight.

Thank you for this information. I too have noticed this problem which is somewhat annoying, particularly when you are shooting a bird you don’t often see. I totally agree, manufacturers should be more open about their products limitations. They could have made it better and charged a little more. As a hobbyists photographer, I don’t have the means to just go out and buy another camera. It was good of you to enquire with Canon and it was refreshing that they were honest with their feedback. Thank you.

Very useful thank you for taking the time to help us all!

Great video Duade! I definitely learned something! Cheers and keep the vids on the R7 coming :)!

As always great video. Appreciate your efforts to deliver great and honest content. 👍

Thanks for this and your dedication, Duade!

Great video Duade. Really like the way you drill down into issues like this and come up with practical solutions 👍

Legend Duade!!!...thanks for all you do for us amateurs/pros out there 💯💯💯💯

Very nice to hear Canon was forthcoming! Thanks for doing the footwork and making this video.

Thanks Duade, this is a very vital video. God bless you bro for reaching out to canon and sharing this❤❤

Here's my 2 cents and ive talked about this in a few videos about the R7 and any mirrorless camera for AF. IF your subject is not moving (outside your depth of field) then get your focus and get OFF the AF button. If the subject will move out of the DoF then get back on it. This becomes a skill. What is happening is that AF is hunting all the time, and if it decides something else is the point it will move point. And thus the motors of the lens have to adjust. Now you have 2 things going on, the motor for 1 and the sensor readout for 2. Result - focus, focus, out of focus, focus, etc. So end advice from my use, get your focus, get off the button, touch the button again as you need to. A 30 for burst will be fine in that situation. And YES you need good contrast on the R7. I lost a whole session in iffy light as I forgot to raise the exposure to get better contrast and everything came up 'off'.

Super helpful. Thanks, Duade!

I just got to say that I really do appreciate you taking the time to really steady on that because I was having the same problem that you’re talking about and I just thought it was just me I will take in consideration the settings that you’re talking about and I definitely appreciate you doing the hard work for me Next time I go out I will use those settings.

Thanks for taking care of that. I will try it out the next few days.

Some very useful information in your video. I have another brand of camera and sometimes the focus point indication is on the subject but the actual focus is somewhere else. You explanation could apply to my camera as well. Thank you for all the work that goes into your videos they are all excellent, informative and honest. Thank you for sharing your experiences and knowledge.

Excellent video, Duade. Thank you very much for going to the trouble and getting the answers. Your prescription for minimizing the issue sounds very similar to what a friend does with his R7. (To this point, I've tended to take about 3 times the number of shots of each subject because I assumed 2/3 of the images would be bad from the R7.)