It Ran When Parked OVER 50 Years Ago... And Now It's SEIZED?!

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The black bakelite piece on the coil wire is a radio suppression resistor. The ignition wire screws into it.

We all have PTSD from “you’re not holding the light right” 😂

It's so cool watching an older guy with loads of experience passing his knowledge on to his very well educated son. Love it. [EDIT] Thanks guys. Not an engineer, me, so it all comes down to the customer.

I love watching this father & son team work together. It’s just something so sacred & honest, that you cannot recreate. Sr.’s experience & his on-the-point commentary speaks for itself in volumes. The “Knowledge” implicit in every one of these videos is all-too-obvious. Watch carefully & LEARN ! & ENJOy motorheads worldwide!

Everything Jim does reminds me of My father. I'm 70 now, but pop taught me the dirty business of machine work and auto repair. Hold the light there! Horrible nights when we would repair one or the other's cars half the night...Just to impress him, I walked a VW body over a chassis with the engine and stick in place and bolted it up before he returned from work. Prussian blue oil paint on the valves...thank you so very much to both you and my father, saved me a million over the years.

Every motor I ever worked on ran the last time it ran… 😀

RE: Crack. IF a replacement block can't be found, and I know they're out there, I'd try to repair this one. I'd wager there's a number of us who'd like very much to get a good view of the process and result! Good stuff, guys. Appreciate it! "D"

My vote is to repair the crack with Locknstitch. Just because it will make a very interesting video. (And it really will be a good repair.)

It's got a mixed matched distributor and timing cover. The aluminum timing cover is correct for the Mercury, but also had an aluminum distributor with it. It had a shaft that protruded past the gear that ran in that extra guide in the timing cover. The cast distributor does not have that because it was meant for the cast iron cover. As far as the crack, stitch it up with cast plugs and sleeve the cylinder. Run adjustable lifters and drill the lifter bores to stick a pick in to make adjusting easier. Run an aluminum timing gear instead of the fiber gear. Just a few hints. Have fun!

ive fixed a similar crack before with tapered pins, hardened valve seats and a sleeve. these old flatheads are getting harder to find and without cracks and would make them a unicorn especially since i think they were factory installed

The silvery oil is not likely to be due to leaded fuel but instead you will probably remember that about the time it was parked, graphite infused oils were the big thing for performance and reduced wear! Mobile, STP and Arco were some of the ones I remember being displayed in the shops I learned in. My first vehicle was a 52 Ford Pickup with a Flathead V8 when I was 17 (54 now). Love seeing you guys work on them. Good memories of learning the mysteries of ICE motors!!! Thanks for the stroll down Memory Lane!

I'm 63 and never had a father to hang with. I can't imagine my life if I had a dad like this. Great channel.

Boy you guys are making me feel OLD. I turned 15 in 1970 and the following summer my summer job was on a farm and involved driving a 57 Ford pickup with a flathead 8 I imagine it was parked after that summer. Hard to believe those good memories are 53 years old.

A MLS head gasket from a J30 Honda engine sliced my left hand to the bone and did it so quickly that it really didn’t hurt when it happened. I bled all over the shop before I got it glued together. Probably should’ve got stitches but didn’t. Wearing gloves pulling them off of an engine is a great way to avoid seeing your own blood. Back in the mid nineties some Toyota and Nissan engines had issues with carbon buildup in the cylinders that caused noise and detonation. We found that the best solution was to take the hose coming off of the washer fluid reservoir and connect it to the intake manifold vacuum source. Take it for a spin and intermittently and carefully press the washer button. Water is still the best carbon remover you can get as long as you are careful applying it. No man made chemical carbon remover will do what steam does when it’s in a ignited combustion chamber. We cleaned many that way without any problems. Moderation is key.

Lead fuel saved that engine from the deadly metal cancer turning it into a sold boat anchor. The cleaning guy definitely needs a pay raise and promotion . 😉🤣Thank you both for these little gems from the modern stone age.

Lock-n-stitch plug kit. Plug crack and install sleeve and new valve seat. 🤘🏻

I was learning to wrench under my dad, who was an excellent mechanic. I don't recall why, but I was on the floor of a 60s Olds (maybe having replaced a headlight switch) after doing a tune up. Instead of getting back up, onto the seat to start it, I reached up to the key, then pressed on the gas with my hand. The throttle stuck, and the engine started knocking. I thought for sure I had spun a bearing insert. My dad came out, revved it up to about 1500 and poured cold water down the carb. The knock completely cleared up. Carbon knock tended to happen when road testing a fresh tuneup (maybe when including a valve adjustment--I don't remember). Basically, the increased combustion efficiency semed to jar the carbon loose.

I believe the hollow bolt heads act as a spring, flexing slightly when properly torqued. This was common in flywheel fasteners for decades. It resists loosening.

"Cleaning guy" is showing some promise to be a good engine guy someday! My grandpa was a Ford man and was a good guy with the flat heads in his auto shop back in the 50's and 60's. His old garage had a couple light bulbs hanging from the rafters and walls you could sling a cat through the gaps in the plank siding, but he was a heck of a good man and mechanic! I sure miss him and my dad!