Track-Ready 50-0 BMW Brake Test CORRECTED -- AFTER/DRIVE

This guy's info about slotted rotors is quite outdated. Modern brake-pad materials do not create the gassing issue. Slots are a trade-off, just like most 'upgrades'. You lose rotor surface to pad contact area, which reduces brake efficiency and ability to create friction against the pad as well as weakening the rotor slightly. You 'gain' the ability to vent gas created from vaporizing the pad material, fortunately that is not an issue anymore. Go with blank surface rotors when using metal rotors unless you use pads that create lots of gas (hardly any these days). I challenge /DRIVE to do a test between slotted, drilled, slotted and drilled, and blank rotors. The blanks, with a modern pad, will perform the best in all categories.

If you reupload a corrected video, you should explain what mistake you have made in the description or in the introduction of the video...

For everyone that is confused. The stopping distances were in question in the old video because everyone assumed it was 60 to 0. They just say in the title that it is actually 50 to 0

Great video!! I knew most of the information in the video but it was still great to see the actual testing. Please do more videos like this one.

good vid. FYI the 6piston AP set up works better if its been heated up after multiple brake runs as if you were at a track day.

Horsepower does not and should not determine your brake size or upgrade. Weight of the vehicle (trucks adding large offroad bumpers, cars adding large sound systems etc.) and use of the vehicle (autocross, track day, etc.) A 3000 pound car with 200 HP traveling at 100 MPH needs the same stopping power as a 3000 pound car with 800 HP traveling at 100 MPH. The kinetic energy is the same. Weight and speed. Adding a turbo, supercharger, or NOS does not warrant new brakes if your car is speed limited at 120 MPH regardless of power.

Thanks to Josh Taylor, /DRIVE, Powerstop, AP Racing/Stillen, and Hawk for help making this video happen. We appreciate your comments, feedback and questions. Let us know if we can help you!

it annoys me they used reaction time and a tape measure for distances. gps accel decel would have been so much more exact

Also, 80-0 brake test over 5 runs would give a much better indication of fade, wear, and how tires and ABS affect/are affected by changes in your brakes.

Bring this series back!

Good video. The measuring tape you are using reports by the tenth of a foot. Small correction I know.

Finally someone who speaks sense. All of these idiots I've talked to my entire life believe that a braking system that grips the rotor with double the force/friction will stop the car nearly 2 times faster. No, it won't. It will just engage ABS with less foot pressure on the brake pedal. The main point these days behind upgrading the brake system is COOLING CAPACITY and thermal handling. If you want to stop faster, get larger/stickier tires, lower the weight of your car, or drop the suspension a few inches and tune your brakes to bias more stopping power to the rear tires, since under less forward lean the rear tires will get more traction and will be able to brake harder.

They have this thing called metric.

Hmm I'm not fully agreeing with what he said about upgrading only the front brakes with a bbk being negative. As long as you match the original bias or use pads that would engage the rear more to compensate. I have a bbk for the front of my BRZ but I just run hawk dtc60 front and DTC70 rear to manage how much work the front calipers are putting in.

The test I would be most interested in seeing would simulate a panic stop on the highway, something like 80-0mph. I'm pretty certain we've all been there, slamming on the brakes and hoping we don't rear-end the car in front...

Infomercial!

Nice video!

Great to hear you are getting to here . So ....... you have " this " , better , faster , quicker . Can you counter point this , with the slower , more cost effective , greener , when it not about throwing money about ................. but getting it to run for longer on less . You know , the wide angle spark kit , the fuel heater , the " sunfoil may " battery filler .

40+% more rotor area on both ends, AND 5x the pistons. DAMN.

How important are pad and rotor break ins? I see a lot of comparisons where guys just go ham on new stuff but I've also heard that break ins are very important. Can you shed some light on this from a performance standpoint?