Repairing A Neglected Driveway Crack | The Ultimate Solution!

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Published 2023-06-23
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Anyone who has a concrete driveway most likely also has one or more concrete cracks in that driveway. There is a method to repair these cracks which do not include hauling around bags of concrete or hours of back-breaking work. I will walk you through this DIY-friendly project which has served me well over the years.

Chapter
0:00 Intro
0:38 Prep Work
1:36 Why You Need To Repair These Cracks
2:26 Filling In The Cracks and Voids
3:40 The Better Solution For Filling Concrete Cracks
5:17 Applying Vulkem 45 SSL
6:07 Avoid This Issue And How To Blend In The Sealtant
8:07 What To Do For Larger Cracks

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All Comments (21)
  • Two additional tips when working with the 45 SSL: you can fill the crack to almost over filling it because it does shrink a bit when it dries. Second: I ended up dumping a large amount of sand over the entire crack once it was filled and then came back the next day and swept/ blew the excess off. It ends up blending much better and does a good job hiding any over fill pointa
  • @16B9
    I live up here in the northwest. The big problem about cracks in sidewalks or driveways is water getting in the cracks and freezing. The frozen water expands the crack further damaging the area. I use 45 psi compressed air to clean out the debris. I enjoy your videos. Thank you.
  • @shizzledesign
    I'm so glad I stumbled upon your video. I have almost an identical crack near my garage and need to address it as soon as it warms up. Thanks so much for taking the time to film this process!!
  • @sae7700
    Great video and prep technique. I can say this is the most effective long term solution, as over 20 years ago I repaired my concrete parking lot using multiple methods (some areas used quikcrete other areas used Solonlastic SL1 with backer rod) the ladder method has held up for 20+ years. All the quikcrete repairs broke up after a few years. Of course a professional would know that would happen, but for me at the time it was an experiment…
  • @YTS85
    I had to use the "pool noodle" method! I've got some areas which I forgot to prep . . . and needless to say, the sealant kept going down and I will have to go back and prep it and then add some more sealant. Funny thing . . . my wife question the "pool noodle" method and said, "Where did you learn that, YouTube?" LOL! Thank you for your videos, they have save me a bunch of mistakes and money. On the end, where the crack really opened up, I used an aluminium, square blank that I had from other projects (4X4) piece and tapped it into the ground next to the end of my front porch. It served as a rigid dam at the end. Worked really good.
  • @gagelindell271
    Solid video for a busy dad who is clueless on this stuff and needs to fix about 4 cracks lol. Thanks Man.
  • @iamreallyright
    Thank you. I am planning to work on some cracks on the garage floor and this just what aI need. Cracks are much smaller but the video seems to address the questions I had.
  • @carlbussmann7559
    Another very comprehensive but easily understood video. He seems never to miss important details and explains how to work around them. Keep up the fine work !!
  • @aldawgd
    I think this was a great video. But if you going to do all that work I would of taken a expanding spray foam such as “Great stuff” (not the most rigid out there once it dries but the original formula is actually pretty stout) and sprayed it down into the crack. If you have a crack larger than a quarter inch or 6-12 months old you most likely have under washing beneath the driveway. Some subsurface erosion. If driveway had proper gavel, tamping, and installation. Only roots or water erosion will cause uneven heights in concrete. So the expanding foam will fill in all the holes and gaps left over from water erosion. And prevent for an extra extended period of time the sinking concrete sinking farther. Can’t be the extra soft cell stuff for like around windows and doors though. Then trim it 48 hours later and it will also act as your backer rod. Then seal it with any quality sealant like you used in video. Using the foam should buy you at least few years before any additional slab sinking and sealing the crack prevents future water erosion buying you at least a few years also. Lastly I would dig to and chop the roots 2’ back from the driveway. They should be only 4”-12” deep and close to in line with crack if it was involved. Well that was a fun book to write lol. Thank you to the 1 person that eventually reads this whole thing ha
  • @mjremy2605
    Excellent, thank you! A very nice demo with great visuals. Also great tips from the comment section. I finally figured out how to shop at your store. You have to click on the right panel to get that sub grouping. Yay! Thanks so much for this series. Very good demos.
  • @chrissupport
    GREAT video. I like the prep work to ensure it sticks and lasts. I didn't know about SSL, and have only used the thinner stuff. I've got some gaps over 1" after slabs shifted when ground was saturated due to a neighbor blocking drainage (with my driveway on a berm). Using backer rod is the trick. Problem here (near St. Louis) is water/melting snow gets down in cracks and freezes/expands in winter, and pushes slabs apart and pops up more concrete
  • I totally agree with you about the tree root possibility helping or causing that crack. Thanks I have driveway cracks I need to fix with no close trees. So I will follow your advice! thanks so much!
  • I have multiple very small cracks. I first slightly enlarged the cracks, then cleaned edges and add sealant! Final step was to add small sand/gravel to match but can adhere to the sealant. It is a 24-year old driveway in the Texas heat and cold and still looks good!
  • @frankbrowning328
    Great topic and instruction. I used that same Valkem product here in WI several years ago, We have temps from as high as 100+ to lows as low as -20 and this product works beautifully. Yes. per tube its a little pricey but it's worth it as it will last for years to come
  • @brian72c
    You can buy a concrete cutting/grinding blade for your angle grinder to open and clean the crack for prep. Also you can grind down the high side to prevent tripping hazards by rounding the edge.
  • Very helpful. Few extra steps i never thought were necessary. Thanks for the quality tips.
  • @moconno1
    Thank you for the video. I have a home with a large circular driveway which has many cracks big and small. I was considering grouting and then painting / sealing to get a better looking result.
  • @steved733
    Hey man pretty good tutorial. A few tips from a guy that has owned a caulking company for 30 years. If you use a 2 part polyurethane caulk you stop a lot of bubbling issues because it cures all at once. Instead of the top curing first. Another tip, Sonneborn, now Masterseal SL-2 Slope grade works way better. You can over shoot it, then back tool excess and you have a perfect joint. That material would have also bridged the height difference of the crack at that one end. There are way more colors with the SL-2 too.
  • @Rheasound
    Thank you for your tip and take the time to sharing.