Problems to Look Out for When Buying a Used Honda CRV

2nd Gen 2002 - 2006 (2:11) 3rd Gen 2007-2011 (2:46) 4th Gen 2012 - 2016 (6:00) 5th Gen 2017 (6:59)

Got a 1998 CR-V with 417,000 miles. Still running perfectly. These cars are so well built.

We bought a very low mileage 2008 in 2010 to pull behind our motorhome. The motorhome is history. The Honda is still going strong as our daily (only) driver. It’s the best car I’ve ever owned. Regular oil and filter changes and one set of tires have been the only maintenance needed. It’s still under 100K miles. Since I’m 76, it’s looking like the CR-V will outlast me.

I love my 2011 CRV and it's still going strong. Keeping it for as long as humanly possible. I think we CRV owners are a pretty loyal bunch!

Still driving my 1997 CR-V, haven't even had to change a single light bulb. The car has been nothing short of amazing.

I have a 1999 CRV, you can't kill it! We have over 300,000 miles on it and it is still going strong.

I was planning to sell my 2011 CRV and after reading most of the positive comments here ... I changed my mind ... I’m keeping it :)

209,000 miles on my 3rd generation 2009 LX and going strong. Basically trouble free. Engine and transmission are rock solid smooth and amazing. Never had the valves adjusted. As others have noted, it just keeps going. At 200,000 I replaced all the shocks/struts with new Honda OEM parts. The ride had gotten a bit floaty and the new struts brought back the old taut but comfortable feel and tight handling. I am expecting it will hit 300,000 easy. It is just been an amazing vehicle.

Thank you for your precise and straight to the point review. Very well summarized. Looking forward to your reviews on other vehicles too.

All I have to say is..... THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU! I have been looking for someone to explain cars like this for a very long time. Now not so hesitant to buy another used car. Just subscribed!

Boy, Greg absolutely nailed my 2008: locking mechanism, struts, rubber trim, and sway bar. 238,000 and going strong.

Wow, you are SPOT-ON describing all the issues with my 2007 Honda CRV. Thank you.

Thanks for the insight gained. I have been faithful to crvs and the are to me. I used the 1st, 2nd, 3rd and now the 4th generation of it and the relationship has been awesome. No heartaches.

I own a 2005 SE and have been quite happy with it. Getting close to 160,000 miles and still runs and looks great! I never knew about the a/c issue though.

I've been looking for a car for 6 months. Your videos are really informative and I will surely heed the warnings. Thanx!

Brother your videos are really commonsensical and helpful. I hope you continue posting more vids. I think they reflect how knowledgeable u r when it comes to vehicles. Thank you

Wow !! I'm about ready to replace my trusty 2006 model with 230000+ and so glad I read this first !

Great breakdown of generations watched it twice and I don’t even have a Honda

I work at a mechanic workshop in Australia. Every single RD/RE CRV we service has developed oil leaks from the VVT spool valve. You can replace the seal but it will start leaking again eventually. Replace the whole valve assembly to start with is my advice and while you’re at it, do the valve cover gasket and oil filter housing seal.

Thank you so so much. There are great mechanics and there are bad mechanics and no one likes to hear the words "we cannot find anything wrong" or " we cannot duplicate the problem". No one likes to take a car to the shop that is not making a noise until after it returns from the shop. I would like to get a newer Honda CRV and your video is very valuable. A friend has a 2000 CRV 2WD with 180,000 miles. One mechanic will say it needs these, another will say something else. I thought it needed shocks/struts but the mechanic said those were ok but it needed motor mounts. The car did not have a severely bad ride and tire wear was normal. My friend replaced all three mounts and now the car sways and nose dives like a boat and it was not doing that before the mount repair. We got wheel alignment 2 wheels only (?) and tie rod ends and it is better but still 90% boat sway especially when hitting bumps. They now say it needs ball joints and upper control arms and the repair list will go on and on for deep pockets. Now they want to do the struts and shocks but I am not sure that will help. It drives like the frame has completely shifted on the car. Help! Help! Every mechanic says something different.