3D Printed Router Lifter BREAKS

Published 2022-11-20
I was shooting a video for a new tool when this happened.
It happened because I lifted the router too high several times.
So I decided to take this test again to confirm the problem.
I took almost the same model printed in March 2022 to test this.
This problem might have been caused not only because of the direct impact
but also because of the geometry problems.
Although Item N:17 was designed as a solid model,
Slicers would still divide it into two pieces at the bottom connection part.
and print it with bottom and top layers instead of walls and infill.
I did not notice this problem until I received an email addressing this issue two weeks ago.
I did fix the geometries and update the files on 22.11.10, but I did not notify anyone because I thought this was still a strong enough connection.
I did test it by hand and did not see any problems with the connection.
Until this happened on November 11, 2022, while shooting a new video
But as you can see, I did break other parts of the router but still couldn’t break the same spot.
Not sure why; maybe it’s because I printed it at a higher speed than required because I was fixing a problem at the time I was shooting a video and was in a rush.
Please reprint item number 17 again from updated files for a stronger connection.
But I still think the main problem is not in the print but in the design itself.
I will design a new version in the next 3 weeks to fix this problem.
I am very sorry for my incompetence.

To download fixed geometry:ussadesign.com/products/p/test-router-lifter-20

All Comments (19)
  • @dudelookatree
    Good on you for doing a fix and eventually a recall. It's such a pain when the best orientation for supports is the worst orientation for strength and that pretty much is always true for printing threads.
  • Cool that you let us know even about the mistakes included in your designs. I have been there myself and it is really appreciated! Thank you and keep on the awesome models. I will reprint my part just to be safe, although it worked perfectly for me so far.
  • @pierre84820
    One of the top channels about 3d printing ! You are a true engineer !
  • Thinking of 3d prints in a similar way to how wood grain affects strength is useful. Also like concrete they have loads of strength in compression and very little in tension. The prints have minimum strength between layers and maximum along the layer. CNC Kitchen is a good resource.
  • @Todestelzer
    You can tilt the part slightly by 5-10°. This way the layer bonding gets stronger in vertical direction. Also 0.1 to 0.15 layer heights and less cooling helps as well.
  • @SandyWise
    Thanks for the dedication to your craft, very impressive work.
  • @ge2719
    i've noticed my slicer do things like this once or twice before where it will do weird things with partial layers under certain sections, but sometimes it will do solid layers... Either way. i think if i needed a part like this to be super strong i'd design it to have screws go in past the potential break point so they will hold both sections together.
  • I have been using the router 2.0 for about 6 months now and have not had an issue. I appreciate you finding and fixing it. I must admit however I am fascinated by the “new” tool your testing. It’s a rotary is it not? Can’t wait to see it in action
  • Am in being stupid or am I missing some information about the print settings. I'd love to know the recommended infills for the different parts. It's my first time printing TPU and not sure what infill to do the gears
  • @Felix.Garcia
    I think this can be avoided anyways with proper slicer settings for the affected layers.
  • @Zombiesrofl
    some slicers will let you set per-layer instructions and settings, e.g.: tell it to print 100 percent infill for 20 layers through that area and then return to whatever settings the rest of your part uses
  • @BOTmaster15
    Putting 4 or 6 small screws wont fix the problem? I know may sound stupid but instead of pure infill additional hole with screw might help a bit (also gyroid infill might be better). or better yet holes through whole model, on one side brass insert on the other flat head screw.
  • @joep9912
    So if we purchase the STLs and you come up with a fix, advancement or a upgraded version, do we have to purchase those STLs too?
  • @axelSixtySix
    Anything Can be 3D printed. But this does mean that everything should be 3D printed. Each thermoplastic have its own range of use, which does not cross every application, especially when the part is 3D printed, because a 3D printed part is not isotropic, so it brings strength issues compared to the same material injection molded. Last but not least, other materials will be much better for this application while decreasing the cost. On the other hand different manufacturing process will be much faster with simple tools. It could be seconds versus hours. Last, don't underestimate standard parts, which are ready made perfect with an unbeatable price tag. I appreciate this can be so entertaining to design and produce a whole product by yourself from scratch and out of your 3D printer. It can works fine, sometimes, but it is maybe still not a good idea.
  • @ds-covery1671
    вообще непонятно что ты делал
  • @hologos_
    Hello, I sent an email. I have a problem with one of your projects. Can I get a response, please? Thank you :)