how to weld aluminum which is rarely known by many people , tig welding

As a welder who specializes in marine grade aluminum/ stainless, this was painful to watch. Don’t use a cut off wheel to weld prep aluminum. It will leave contaminates on the base metal. Best to use a metal blade if you have to prep your weld after the tack. I understand why you didn’t want to weld prep before the repair, because it willl mess with your fit up, but a good fabricator would clamp to a stiff back and get the same fit up and have weld prep before you put the fracture back together… if it held then that’s all that matters, but I’d ol be surprised because the base metal at the root of the weld was contaminated. But hey, what do I know I’m just a random commenter on the internet!

My dear friend, I have been welding aluminium for over 30 years, you have done some things that disqualify you from the start, the first thing is that you weld a part that is subjected to some force, with current wire as an additive material is embarrassing. The alloying elements in that wire are not exactly compatible with that piece. second thing, to polish the weld bead is not admissible and so the processing was done of poor quality, if you also erase the weld bead the resistance is minimal this piece can probably only be used to support flowers .the frequency on the alternating current is too low and the welding parameters (current) is at the lower limit and you can not have penetration into the material, so a disqualified weld . I salute you with respect.

THANK YOU for making your video. Please take an old man's advice, for the next time you do a repair that way. Use a dremel and an end-mill bit, on the inside, and wear your sealed goggles and hollow a wide V-groove on the inside of the part. DO NOT use a wire wheel. Use a fine sandpaper lap sanding wheel, on your grinder, for the outside. Clean the area really good. Secure the part so it's bent the directions it wants to lay, for the fit. Try it back on the equipment it's for, if possible. Make SURE it fits! tack it outside then inside, and stagger the tacks inside and out. That way it wont pull more one way than the other.Have your tig ready to use. Crank up your oxy/actlyn torch to a medium flame and heat the whole part up so you can't touch it. THEN...weld it INSIDE !!!put a lot of filler rod inside. You're NOT going to grind it off. Then, on the outside, lay a stack of dimes, by melting in the surface of the metal, feed in the filler rod, come across it and back up, over and over again, never cutting off your power, and DON'T use "Pulse or Stitch" and a lay a pretty bead, nice and wide, and DON'T grind it off!!!!!! You remove MOST of your strength when you do! Let it air cool. Then crank up your torch again and have a medium flame and heat the whole part up again. This helps relieve the internal stresses of the metal. I've been told it's like a tug of war inside, between the two pieces and the annealing action, kills all of that! DO NOT grind the weld smooth ! !!!!!!! It will last a long time, this way. Let it cool till room temperature. NEVER DIP in quench tank of water! heat it up about 100 degrees and shoot it with Rust-Oleum XX2 paint. It won't corrode that way, (and aluminum is bad to do that). Also, make darn sure the material isn't MAGNESIUM, or you'll be welding a FIRE-STICK !

Looks like you have a shop, welding table, welding gloves, hood, TIG welder, shielding gas, power tools, abrasive disks...etc, but use cuttings of electric cable as filler rod?

Nice, a tip for you ; clamp one end of that cable piece in vice, the other end in a drill spin the drill while applying slight tension for a short while. It straightens the wire quickly and consistently straight.

i agree with the comments criticyzing the methods of welding preparation. as an welder certified for aircraft welding, i would add that it is not advisable to grind the weld after it was finished. knowledge of the type of alloy and the right welding rod material is important. some aluminium materials are not weldable and if weldable, the mechanical strenght may be poor after welding

Alumínio sempre se solda na alternada👍🏼

Why is everybody forgetting to mention the parts have to be chamfered or grind the edges at a 45 degree angle. And use 4043 filler rod for cast aluminum. Pre-heat is good if you don't want it to crack. Clamp the parts down to a piece of 1/4 - 25mm thickness steel plate to keep the parts straight.

Experienced welders, especially TIG welders know about welding aluminum. No secret or time forgotten trick or hack. That's why aluminum welding rods have been available for decades.

Mantap betul las nya rapih padet, kuat, aluminium gas argon. Semoga awet sampai hari akhir.

Этот способ мало кто знает, это точно, потому что так делают только когда совсем нечем работать. Профессионалы всегда имеют в арсенале присадочные прутки нужного сплава, а также пользуются для обработки борфрезами, так как любой образив загрязняет алюминий и ухудшает прочность сварочного шва.

Надо было ещё изнутри канавку на стыке сделать, чтобы шов был толще для прочности...

Сам имею мастерскую, в основном сварка в среде аргона. Когда увидел проволоку...))) Безмерно благодарен таким " мастерам"!!! Потому что ценник на переделку их кроилова, плюс 200%. 😊

Is pre heating required ? Plus a jig to assure the alinement of connection holes

Sensacional.. Parabéns

Haaa....cara millaneal....tutor bermanfaat.....matur suwon kang kuli : sehat, rukun & bejo.

Ficou muito bom

I wouldn't use pulse for that thick material, i see lack of penetration because of that, wire wheel is also poor choice to clean up, best is sandpaper grinder disc but I guess it is all You have and you trying to survive in this world so good job my friend 😁

I’started to practice Tig weld. When using the face helmet can one actually see clear the filler melting? The helmet I’m using is very hard to see anything when welding the light is too strong. Currently using only 100 amp on the Tig welder machine.

No he leído los comentarios pero pregunto Que usaste como fundente?