HOW TO: CHEAP LS AFM/DOD CONVERSION. CHEAP, CHEAPER AND CHEAPEST OPTIONS. CONVERT FOR PERF CAM SWAPS

You forgot to mention the changes that need to be done in the tuning line turning off the DOD etc etc. I actually just finished one of these with a BTR parts. Such an improvement!

Maybe a follow up deleting VVT, and converting to 3 bolt cam, timing set, and cam sensor.

I plug the DOD ports regardless even with the blanking Valley cover as it is a source of oil loss.

Richard, I don't like just the cover and orings blocking of the oil ports on top. #1 is possible warpage of the plate.#2 oring failure. Piece of mind is plugging them. The nice plate can still be installed. Thanks for all the educational videos.

What freaking fantastic timing for this! We are literally just putting a 6.2 Denali back together that suffered from a failure even "with the dongle installed". It's terrifying how many of these trucks are out there even well cared for that have the ticking time bomb of AFM/DOD under the hood. Doing it outside the truck is certainly a lot easier to do than when it's between those big honking fenders. However. If you HAD to do it in a truck, how would YOU do it? Pull the cab and work on it in the chassis? Or disassemble the nose and attack it through the front? The kit we prefer is the full boat from Texas Speed, new lifters, gaskets, bolts, "hammer home plugs", no more factory installed GM failures! We're cab off kind of folks, but maaaaan the internet know it alls HATE it! Great video as always Richard always appreciate you giving some good honest real world experience in these videos Sir!

I can’t believe how good of shape the top end looked! I love GM small blocks. Best engines ever. (Simplified is the best)

Cheaper DOD Delete would be an A-37 wheel bearing like a Timken37, or WTA-37 wheel bearing; cut the race and use the taper shaped hardened steel bearings, tap them in as well with a hammer. One of your commenters mentioned the A-37 wheel bearing already. An even cheaper option is to tap the holes w/a 3/8-16 tap and use set screws; use a vaccum while tapping to keep the metal from going where you dont want it to go. For good measure you should still use the valley pan w/their o'rings; so yes the ICT cover with its bling affect can still be used

On past LS1 cam swaps I’ve done we used the dowel rod method to pin the lifters up after spinning the cam to push the lifters up. We obviously weren’t changing lifters so we weren’t pulling the heads and we didn’t want the lifters to fall especially on those high mileage motors. I was always on edge hoping the lifters wouldn’t fall being the cars were F-Body and didn’t want to drop the cradle to get the pan off.

I was going into extreme detail learning how to do this myself as a recent new L83 owner... then today, when i plan on ripping into the car, ypu post this. Divine intervention! Thank you!!!

I cannot give Richard enough praise! Such an awesome channel for everything LS and beyond!

I used taper roller bearing from an A67 bearing and tapped them in. I also used the GM replacement cover since it has the oil pressure sensor port.

I'd use the plugs. Maybe even tap and screw in plugs. That's my opinion.

Love watching your videos. Learned alot from you and see how you do things. Was able to get my own cam swap done in large part because of watching your videos. Keep it up!! Love that your down the street from me too!

Why not use plugs with the o ring ict cover over it then its double sealed seals can fail

Matt happel did a video a few weeks ago showing bearing rollers that fit for plugs and gave the part number for the bearing, sir slop said they fit better than most plugs he used in the past

For my race car I used the GM cover and LS7 lifters. Additionally I retained the VVT and had the ECU DOD V4 mode turned off. Unfortunately I didn’t know then what I know now… wrong can… whelp you live and learn and will opt for the Truck Norris at a later date.

265k on my lmg, still has the afm and no ticking at all, pretty amazed lol

im doing this on a 5.3 now. When I pulled the head I found a valve with JN Weld on it lol. you are correct who ever pulled the head the first time broke two of the bolts off.

I really cheaped out and went with disabling the DOD on the ecm.

That is the first time that I saw a stock exhaust manifold on an LS come off without any of the bolts snapping off!