The SIMPLE Trick If You Don't Have A Paint Booth!

Hi Fellas, just a quick word about this video and the title used. When you watch the full video you'll learn some tricks along the way that will greatly help you if you don't have a paint booth. This video was filmed in a paint booth but the methods and expert tips explained in this video are geared toward those that might be spraying in their garage. Make sure you watch the full video before posting a comment.

Hey Brian I commented a couple months ago about being 19 and running my own small shop and told you how much you’ve helped me. As of yesterday I got a job offer from my local Chrysler dealership to be the head painter at age 20 I swear I’ve learned more from you than any class I took thank you so much Brian because of what you’ve taught me just over YouTube I’m moving up in the world thank you

I have been painting for 40 plus years. I never took a class for paint or body. I have worked for a couple of body shops that did high-end work and learned by example. Brian is right one with his advice. His blend techniques and clear application videos have been very helpful for me to get grat turnouts. Especially with the tri coats. Brian is the best teacher . He is very good at explaining exactly what he intens to do. His best advise is that when you prep or paint, you are in control of your turnout. Just relax, follow your plan of attack, and focus on your application. I painted show winning 64 Chevy on a dirt floor garage. Controlling your inviroment is everything when spraying your project. Thanks! From Tom in Wisconsin.

Always admire people who know about paint. For many of us, it's a complete mystery.

Great video. I’ve painted many cars as a hobbyist, but seeing the pros do it makes it look far easier than it really is. Patience is number 1!

Your tips and tricks have helped me out so much. They made me better at body work and paint on my last three home paint jobs. Keep up the great content, thanks Brian. I'm currently flattening clear on my latest 86 mustang convertible project after flow coating. The Kovax green 2000 buflex disks really help get out those straight line 2000 grit wet/ dry scratches before compound.

I've been working in IT all my life; I'm a network specialist in an American corporation, but I live in Poland. At the age of 49, I became interested in painting (it runs in the family - my grandparents had an automotive paint shop with a oven room to dry car's ). It started innocently; I have a motorcycle - I decided to do it myself. Currently, I have a Wacom Eo Carbonio 190 1.2 spray gun - and painting brings me a lot of joy, allowing me to unwind after work in IT with clients. I didn't realize how much satisfaction and pleasure this profession brings. Do you think 49 years is too late to learn this? With age, I have more humility, patience, and precision - which are desirable here. Thanks for the videos - I enjoy watching them.

I'm on an Elcamino project and have gotten in way over my skills. I'll be watching you for the next decade!

Great insights for the DIY guys, much appreciated. One thing I notice with all the pros especially spraying clear is the overlap. It's so much more than "textbook".

I paint motorcycles. For my last Harley, I built a 6 foot high painting booth in my backyard on the grass using one inch PVC pipe and heavy plastic drop cloths. So easy to do, easy to use, easy to clean up. Couple that with these tips and you are good to go.

First time watching one of your videos! I have been painting 40 years and never tried this but it makes sense! I am a firm believer in wanting to have as little finish work as possible after the clear is dry. I have to try this trick! I have learned many tricks of the trade over 40 years but this one is new to me! Thanks for the video and I will be watching more of yours. You do a very good job making your videos and expalining what is being done without unrelated crap and staying on point. I not only paint vehicles but was a professional photographer. From one pro to another...GREAT JOB!

I was taught to wipe in one direction, otherwise the rag is dragging dirt in both directions and leaving it behind. Go in the same direction while overlapping and you get all the dust and dirt. Beautiful work!

I have been doing this for over 20 years on my first coat of base. I use 1000 or if I find an area that needs more attention I use 800. It saves time with nib sanding and buffing. Does a great job to help you get the perfect paint job.

Keep in mind for anyone painting their car, there's certain base coats out there that will have adhesion problems with the clear if you do sand it. So make sure you are using a basecoat that allows sanding.

I clicked on this one real quick my guy. I'm looking to do this next year. No booth, no garage. Plan on building a makeshift tent just to spray my 95 Mustang GT. 👍🍻

That's a smooth slippery paint job there, I'm been garage car painting for 30+ yrs or so... I remember a paint shop seller telling me this trick when I started way back then, I'm glad I seen this video as I had forgotten it long ago . !

Great videos. Even at 53. Im.learning tips on welding and painting for my many bike and car projects. Thanks for your clean and simple tips

Brian took me from spray painting touch up to buying light wrecks and repainting them. This guy is better than u realize, listen to him!

Brian covered this topic flawlessly. Always a good idea to use some rattle can etch primer or UV primer on cut throughs. Basecoat does not adhere to bare metal very well. Ill add a few more tips. If your painting an overall and have a few new panels and or bumpers along with some repair work...I would seal complete, let it tack, put 2 coats color let it flash, then light wet sand complete...wiping dry as you go. Use the same flex pad as Brian does here and make sure keep your fingers closed together and not much pressure. Wet sanding does take longer but prevents paper clogging and does a better job at leveling the color. Too much pressure on the pad will leave finger impressions in you color. For a trophy winning job...after sanding and cleaning, lay down 3-5 more coats of color inspecting and lightly nibbing in between. Color does not add much film build especially if using water base. At a microscopic level you can see how the droplets from multiple coats overlap each other as the color flows out and flashes leaving a perfectly level surface to clear. Flash time is ultra important in this type of job so know your metal temp and use the correct reducer for the job. When you clear use a high quality clear and a gun with the highest transfer efficiency you can get your hands on. Again for trophy winning final job lay down 6 coats clear doubling flash between each consecutive coat. Correct gun setup and technique will lay the clear out slick but the real objective here is getting the material on the project without overapplying anywhere. All catalyzed products shrink as they dry...so no matter how Lazer straight your bodywork is and how well the rest of the steps were done to create the straightest panel possible, urethane clear coat shrink will cause wave (light refraction) in the final finish. So get the clear on the project let it dry and shrink over the next few days or week then block sand starting at 800 working through the grits all the way through the trizac 3000 and 5000. Be familiar with the characteristics of the clear your using. Some clears like ceramic clear is better to cut and buff sooner than later. But most of your high quality clears can wait a day or 3 for complete shrink before cut. If you cut before clear is done shrinking you just wasted alot of time. All of these extra steps do not apply to everyday collision repair work.

I am a newbie to auto painting and I find your videos very informative. With vids like this, I will be able to maintain my 2005 Merc looking new. Of course, you make it all look so easy but, you're a pro. If I lived in your neck of the woods, you would get all my business.