One of these is safer than you think

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Published 2024-01-24
Sterling PowerCord vs V-TX. Well, that's what it originally was about, but we decided to break over 140 samples to understand all the accessory cords we have to discover 12kn 7mm nylon cord is actually stronger than PowerCord at 19kn??? At least when you use it, which is the only thing that is relevant imo.

All our accessory cord is at hownot2.store/collections/acc...

Our detailed spreadsheet can be found on our blog with all the things we broke in this video hownot2.store/blogs/news/pc-v...

Thank you Walt Waldow for supporting this episode.

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All Comments (21)
  • @matthewjswider
    Hey Ryan, my name is Matt. I’m a weekend climber who builds custom campers and RV’s. We have a fab shop, and can weld up anything you want, and would love to contribute to the channel in any way we can. If you’d like some new more heavy duty ballads to pull on that won’t deform let me know. Zero dollars. Just want to help.
  • "Where's your sense of humor" "It has evolved past the third grade"😂
  • @hamishlivo
    Breaking all the stock in your store is somewhat equivalent to a drug dealer getting high on their own supply 😂😂😂
  • @maypenray7070
    If you're going to replace the metal drums you use for breaking, you might want to try filling the middle of the drum with concrete. Steel is strong in tension, concrete is strong in compression. The concrete filling will support the concrete "skin" and prevent it from necking.
  • @alexstarr1589
    As someone who has started using hitches more often for rope-climbing of trees, I've been sadly disappointed by the lack of good real-world info on accessory cord. So thank you for your work in adding to that knowledge. Interesting to see that good old nylon still "just works" in real-world conditions whereas high-tech fibers require nuance and careful consideration to be used to maximum effect.
  • More funny than you lifting weights was the quiet snicker of your partner in crime in the background. Nice, Bobby!
  • @mountainmandoug
    This info has been so hard to get for so long. Everyone who uses high tenacity cords should watch this video. You should also do some flex-fatigue testing on these cords using your rubmaster5000.
  • @rookiemoves
    Request: make an episode testing the most bomber way to sling a chicken head. Headed to Cochise next week and there just is not a lot of info out there. Would be interested to see if different mm cordelletes made into various sling lengths with double fisherman’s would hold a fall. Also curious what the actual strength of different methods of slinging chickenheads are. Like clove vs girth etc. Would be super interesting if a little niche.
  • Thanks again for testing stuff we can only wonder about. Two points to contemplate. First, If you believe the theory (and I don't), the sum of the separate core and sheath breaking strengths should be greater than breaking strength of the rope. The main reason is the lay angle theta of the yarns in the sheath. When the sheath is on the rope, the lay angle is rather high -- like 45 degrees -- and a straight pull of the rope makes each yarn see a force proportional to 1/cos(theta). As the separately-pulled sheathe stretches, theta decreases and the force on each yarn gets to be a lower fraction of the total pull force. The actual trig relationships are way complicated. Second, diverters are supposed to make wrapped rope follow the capstan equation; with each wrap there is an exponential decrease. If each wrap causes a 2x multiplication of force, 4 wraps gives 16x force multiplication, and 8 wraps gives a 256x multiplication, 12 wraps gives a 4096x multiplication. OK, you probably knew that. I break a lot of cordage, and I noticed some pre-packaged 7mm REI cords break at least 1.5 times the stated mbs. (I have a quasi-diverter.) I wonder if the manufacturer is really giving us the 8-8 strength? I've also noticed a variation of 10% in the weight per length in different batches of supposedly the same rope or webbing from REI.
  • @Robbieburnett1
    One of your most applicable videos Really loving the real world break test values in loops and 8 to 8.
  • @tc_wat
    Sometimes the reason powercord is chosen over a sling has more to do with being able to untie it after it has been loaded. Dyneema slings can get extremely difficult to until after a few falls. If you're doing multis and just racking the quad after use, that's fine, but if you need that sling for something else it becomes a real pain.
  • @Hoaxndroid
    Amazing vídeo Ryan, thank You so much for shedding some light on these things!!!
  • Thanks - I re-cord my old wild country nuts with 5.5mm spectra accessory cord, but recently I’ve been looking at 5mm dynema from chandleries (boat shops). This was super helpful, and the tight curve going through the nuts has me somewhat more thoughtful.
  • @morgdroland
    This is really useful when I'm making decisions about what to build anchors from and the speadsheet sums it up really well. Thanks
  • @bodhimedia1
    Great video! Thank you for the great info!
  • @Realryancurry
    Could you please keep going over these material names. I’m trying to learn more. Hey, I like the outtakes/ misspeaking funny stuff in the last video to 👍👍😎👍👍