Warleggan - twinned with Narnia! A walk in one of the remotest villages on Bodmin Moor, Cornwall

Published 2021-07-02
Join us in our video today as we explore Warleggan, on Bodmin Moor, Cornwall. It is off the beaten track and described as a gateway to Narnia. With a story of a turbulent vicar and a beautiful ruralist gothic house, high on Bodmin Moor, Warleggan is a captivating place to visit.

A feeling of Narnia begins as you get close, with the increasingly fairytale-like woods and narrow winding roads as you approach the village. I was intrigued by the name Warleggan, having heard it in Poldark. Warleggan gets it name from a Cornish word, Garleggan, meaning 'high place'. The highest place in the village is Carbarrow Tor, just north of the church, standing at 912 feet.

Our walk takes us down into a steep-sided valley that feels secluded and untouched by the 21st century, as if you have entered another world. The path leads to a tumbling river and a wonderful gothic house, once home to the Brotherhood of Ruralists, a group of twentieth century artists, craftspeople and poets, continuing the feeling of being in another world.

We also visit the church which is set above the village and has a wonderful story to tell of a vicar that fell out with his parishioners, and delivered sermons to an empty church.

In this video, I can't resist grabbing my sketching stuff, and create a couple of little sketches as mementos along the way. These are available on my Etsy store: www.etsy.com/uk/shop/CornishWalkingTrails


The standard description bit…
We are Sarah and Andrew and we film our walks around Cornwall and publish on YouTube, usually weekly. Sometimes we stay in accommodation in Cornwall and upload our vlog. Sarah is fascinated by sea glass and likes to collect it so there may be the occasional sea glass video too. The channel is a hobby and we both have normal day jobs!

Frequently asked questions:
What camera do we use?
Since December 2018 we have used: Canon Powershot G7x MkII

How do I find the books you use?
Most are still in print although some we pick up in charity shops and may be available on Amazon secondhand. Please refer to the video for the book titles. Every video shows the book three times. Sorry but we can’t put a link in every description.

Best time of year to visit Cornwall?
We love May, June for flora and fauna, July and September for spectacular scenery.

What is your dog’s name?
Sorry but we do not release the name of our dog, perhaps you can make up your own name for him.

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All Comments (21)
  • @miranda4903
    Lovely video, thank you. So very quiet there. Just the birds singing. and a babbling stream. How very peaceful.
  • @cathydyer3774
    What a lovely day for an away -from -the tourists -walk. I loved the birdsong and the story about Reverend Densham. Shame - as Sarah said he must have been lonely! I also found this information about him on Warleggan News. "..and there was many a time that he preached to an empty church – indeed, he was meticulous recording the attendance (or lack of it) in the register, on one occasion writing “No fog, no wind, no rain, no congregation”. On the other hand, he is fondly remembered by many parishioners as a kind and generous man who would bring rhododendron and camellias in spring to villagers and would send milk to people who were ill. He built a playground for children and held slide shows – there are still some in the parish today who remember going to these slide shows when they were young. And he was friendly with the Methodists in the community..." That first part of the walk looked treacherous and lucky you two did not twist your ankles! Thanks again.
  • @sallydingle321
    Poor reverend...having to pay to get his dog back 😱...how cruel 😖... can't imagine. Fabulous walk again and definitely added to my list 👌😁. I'm gradually getting through your list 🙏💝😘
  • @ianmiller4445
    It's time you published an artistic, informative Cornish Walking Trails book, of the best walks you've done. Illustrations by Sarah, local humour by Andrew, trail notes by both.
  • @AlisonBryen
    As a huge fangirl of George Warleggan from Poldark I always look out for the sign for the village when we're travelling on the A30. One day im going to convince my husband to take a detour and visit. I also once played Lucy in a musical version of The Lion The Witch and the Wardrobe so as High Queen of Narnia its only right i pay a diplomatic visit to Warleggan! As a fan of all things paranormal, I'm also very familiar with the ghost stories surrounding St Bartholomew's Church and Reverend Densham. Way back when I'd tell the ghost story to my family in the car when we passed by on the A30... "No fog, No wind, no rain, no congregation"...
  • I will never tyre of your puns. Great walk and video, thanks again for sharing.xx
  • 😂Not like your usual walk. Lots of laughs, beautiful lane, mystery vehicles, and lovely views. Everything is so green. Thanks for the great walk.
  • @judybee
    Amongst my mementos of Cornwall churches over many years, I have a little booklet from Warleggan Church. I must dig it out...I had always thought the tale of the cardboard cutouts was real, as I also have the Daphne Du Maurier book too! At the other end of Cornwall in Morwenstow there is a tale of another vicar Robert Hawker who lived as a hermit on the cliffs & you can climb down to visit his little place on the cliffs where he lived. I'm glad that it wasn't one of your walks where you retrace your route, as the climb back up that valley would have been a whole lot harder than it was going down!...& that was some climb! Just loved all the foxgloves etc along the way & the tranquillity & stillness...shows you can 'get away from it all' even in peak season if you know where to look. Fabulous sketches too....Loved this vid...one of my favourites I think....x J x
  • @phil7301
    Lovely, secret footpaths , quaint streams and beautiful cottages,. Another great video. 🥟🥟👍
  • @MakeDoAndMend1
    The Reverand also was the first person to use a selfie stick. He invented it. Cheers from old George 👍🤠
  • @randomdave30
    About a decade or more ago there was a feature film produced entitled 'A Congregation of Ghosts' featuring Edward Woodward as Densham in his final role. The film, an independent feature, has not seen much exposure on account of rights issues but there have been a couple of trailers released here and there. The Densham story and the subsequent ghost story is evocative, melancholy and eerie and I hope the film sees the light of day.
  • @meg2042
    I thought perhaps the tyre tracks are from a vehicle used to cut back the hedgerows? Really interesting walk, you never disappoint😎
  • Hi guys we were down when the g7 was on but stayed away from it love the sense of humour ...not sure about the shape of the walk on the map lol but still a great walk keep the videos coming cheers
  • Hello 👋 I have to say I absolutely LOVE ❤️ your videos. You are both so happy on your trails. I have loved Cornwall since I was 3!!!! I’m 57 now!!!! haha. Looking forward to more “Happy Trails” Maureen 🌞😀xx
  • @TheSWolfe
    That was, indeed, one rough road! Good thing 'twas a roundabout route - Sarah would have one heck of a time ascending those huge stones on the return trip w/o a stepladder otherwise. LoL - just kidding. I wish I was as fit & road-ready as you two are! Whether a challenging hike or leisurely stroll, walking is one of the best ways to really see & experience the beauty of your surroundings. Watch yourself on those old gateways tho, don't want to get written up & fined for wreckless leaning!
  • So beautiful walk. Like you are walking in a fairytale. I also very much appreciate the stories you include, like the one about the poor lonely reverand. And I am amazed by the beautiful drawings and that you are using a pen and not a pencil. No possibilities of wiping anything out. You are very good at this, Sarah! 🥰
  • What a wonderful place. The church. The old track leading to the river. The gorgeous old bridge. The story of the old rector preaching to an empty church. I’ve heard of a vicar in a village I lived in some years ago, doing the same thing. Great video. Thank you both.