Is it worth visiting Jamaica Inn, Bodmin, Cornwall?

Published 2021-02-12
In this video we explore Jamaica Inn, Cornwall. Situated in an isolated village on Bodmin Moor, the Inn was formerly a coaching inn, being half way between the towns of Launceston and Bodmin.

Cornish history tells of smuggling and wrecking. Smuggling was rife in the late 1700, early 1800s in Cornwall. After several decades of warring, the British government was broke and raised taxes on luxuries like wine, spirits, tobacco and silk. The enterprising Cornish sailed to the Channel Islands and France to buy brandy, wine and tobacco, bringing it back to secluded coves, avoiding the Customs men, and selling to the locals, 'Cornish free trade'. Smugglers also stopped at Jamaica Inn because it was on the route between the south coast where the contraband was landed and the north coast where it was distributed.

Daphne Du Maurier was riding across Bodmin moor with a friend when the weather changed, rain lashed down and the mist hid all recognisable landmarks. Fearing how she would return, her friend suggested that they let the horses lead them back, much to Daphne Du Maurier's uncertainty. Eventually, the horses found their way to Jamaica Inn where they stayed the night. This was Daphne Du Maurier's first encounter with Jamaica Inn.

In her book, 'Jamaica Inn', she tells the story of a gang of wreckers, slightly different to smugglers. Where smuggling involved the whole community against the government and officials turned a blind eye, wrecking was much more sinister. At night, wreckers hung lanterns on the cliff tops above rocky coves, to make it look like a harbour, luring ships in until they hit the rocks. Wreckers murdered the crew and stole the cargo.

In this video we visit Jamaica Inn, where they have embraced their historical connection with smuggling and the book by Daphne Du Maurier. As a little post script, we travel 7 miles to the pretty little village of Altarnun to find the vicarage of Francis Davey, the fictional leader of the gang of wreckers.

The standard description bit…
We are Sarah and Andrew and we film our walks around Cornwall and publish on YouTube, usually weekly. Sometimes we stay in accommodation in Cornwall and upload our vlog. Sarah is fascinated by sea glass and likes to collect it so there may be the occasional sea glass video too. The channel is a hobby and we both have normal day jobs!

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All Comments (21)
  • @jameskrell4392
    I too have been racing past Jamaica in for years. When I started the main road went passed the front of the Inn. I will certainly visit when it is open again. As for Smuggling I have a short tale to tell. Back in September 1976 I camped at Pentewan sands. My tent was right at the beach edge, just a low grass bank separated us. Great in the late summer sun but very cold at night. We came back to the tent on the second night, it was dark as we had stayed out all day and then went for a meal. The tent and bedding turned out to be wet as it had rained and water had got in. We salvaged what dry bedding we could and got our heads down in the car. About one in the morning I awoke to a sound. I could see on the rocks to the right a light shining and then I heard voices behind the car. A torch flashed behind us and two men walked right passed the car, I froze. I could see a small boat and figures on the beach near the rocks. My wife woke up and I told her to be quiet. I started the engine and quickly left the campsite. In the morning light we returned to pack up. I went down to the rocks but couldn't see anything but to this day I am convinced that they were smugglers.
  • @paulkarenuk7745
    Thank you both....appreciate your vlogs ..just what we need..love Cornwall.
  • @Mousyfox
    I've stayed there a couple of times in the past, when working in the area. It has changed considerably in the time since. Nice to see it again, since I retired five years ago. I bought several of Daphne DuMaurier's books whilst there, and still have them, along with my room pass card from my last stay. Thank you for the nostalgic reminder.
  • @phil7301
    That was lovely, can't beat Cornwall in the spring. The daffodils are out in a village up the road already ! And I couldn't believe that a Camilla has flowered and is past its best too, everything is so advanced even with all this cold weather 👍🥟🥟🥟
  • Alturnum: another place I've never visited. Wow, so picturesque with the bridge and river. Haven't been to Jamaica Inn since the 1980s, when the A30 went past it. There used to be a parrot which greeted you as you came in the front door. It wasn't an 'attraction' then. I think it was taken over recently and has now been revamped into a hotel, although I don't know why you'd want to stay there as it's in the middle of nowhere, but could come in very handy in a blizzard when the road is blocked. It has an interesting history.
  • Thanks once again, great video made my day and lots of other people's. You brighten everyone's lives in these crazy times. Keep safe X😄
  • @anitaford6559
    Love the tour of the end. I’m a history fanatic and the older the story or legend the better.
  • Great video. I didn't realise the extent of smuggling pasties in Cornwall. The pasties were mined and also smuggled in by ship. 😂😂
  • @MariaLeel
    This is such a lovely video. Jamaica Inn was my first introduction to Daphne Du Maurier. Visited the Inn many years ago... must go again! And thanks so much for the detour to Altarnun (Francis Davey... what a spooky man). Loved it x
  • @greenrosenz
    We were there in July/August 1978. A great holiday. There used to be a parrot/ cockatoo in a cage in the bar. It grabbed my girlfriend's ( now wife of 42 years) wooly jumper & woulndn't let go to the meriment of all in the bar. We laughed later at the next victim a little later. Cornwall is a lovely place. Tnanks for posting your wonderful walks.
  • Not a walk, but still awesome info, love the sceanic views,,,,I remember watching (here in OZ) a TV series, about Jamaica Inn rough storey but now I know it's true,,,,thanx for all your videos,,,👍🇦🇺
  • @barryjaques3065
    Good little video thank you. Ill have to visit it again as it has changed so much since i visited it, the museum was full of stuffed animals hundreds of them all set out doing different things like rats & mice playing cricket for eg, some of it was scary. there was only a little bit on Daphne Du Maurier.
  • Well now where will I get my pasty from, since my smuggling connection is in stocks. Oh wait, he escaped and all is good. I love historical places like this. Looked like a fun place to explore. Have a wonderful week you two.
  • This was really exciting to watch :) I haven't been very much inland in Cornwall, as I am mainly walking the coastal paths. But I see that it could be a great idea to visit Jamaica Inn and perhaps also do some walking up to some of the lovely tors :) I was - again - inspired by you to order yet another book. Jamaica Inn. I will luckily get a lot of time for reading when I retire in the end of the year ;-) Thank you for sharing this video. Torunn :-)
  • Stayed two times here, lovely place to be. And for sure I return one day, alive or death 😁
  • Looks very interesting history, we look forward to our visit when we can go , enjoyed video thank-you